Nitro Engine Bearings
The Avid 14x25.4x6 Ceramic Engine Bearing offers the maximum performance and reliability to your racing engine at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec3, 9 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Deep Groove Offset Races, and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel. A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater than a steel bearing. Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass.
If your engine is not listed below, please check with your manufacturer first to see what size you require.
Engines Used In
- O.S.: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, VZ-B V-Spec II WE
- Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
- RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
- Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
- ProTek: 321B
- Alpha
- Jammin
- Go
- Ninja
- Picco
- Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
- Trinity Drake
Tips
- Diagnosing: If you hold the head of the engine with your hand and the rattling sound disappears then you have a worn-out rear bearing. The risks/issues of a bad rear bearing are not holding a tune, crank can get worn, and worst of all the bearing comes apart and eats your piston/sleeve.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
- Break-In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.
Bearing Dimensions:
The bearing specs are Abec5, 7 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Chrome Steel 52100 Rings, and two rubber seals.
A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater over a steel bearing.
Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass (0.8g lighter then the steel ball version of this bearing).
Engines Used In:
- Almost all .21/.28 engines
Tips:
Diagnosing: Typically you can tell a front bearing is going out if after a run there is a large wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistent tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
Break In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.
Bearing Dimensions:
METRIC: 7mm (Inner) x 19mm (Outer) x 6mm (Width)
STANDARD: 0.27559" (Inner) x 0.74803" (Outer) x 0.23622" (Width)
The Avid 14x25.4x6 Engine Bearing offers the amazing performance and reliability to your engine at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec5, 9 G5 Chrome Steel 52100 Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Deep Groove Offset Races, and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel.
If your engine is not listed below, please check with your manufacturer first to see what size you require.
Engines Used In
- O.S.: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, VZ-B V-Spec II WE
- Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
- RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
- Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
- ProTek: 321B
- Alpha
- Jammin
- Go
- Ninja
- Picco
- Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
- Trinity Drake
Tips
- Diagnosing: If you hold the head of the engine with your hand and the rattling sound disappears then you have a worn-out rear bearing. The risks/issues of a bad rear bearing are not holding a tune, crank can get worn, and worst of all the bearing comes apart and eats your piston/sleeve.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
Bearing Dimensions:
Engines Used In:
- Almost all .21/.28 engines
Tips:
- Diagnosing: Typically you can tell a front bearing is going out if after a run there is a large wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistent tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: This bearing has a rubber seal on each side. There is a lot of debate on leaving both seals on the bearing or taking one off and installing the bearing with the rubber seal facing the outside world. Contrary to popular belief, the seal is not designed to keep fuel from coming out of the engine. The seal is ONLY there to keep dirt from coming into the bearing. Personally, I pop out one seal with an X-acto just to increase the performance of the bearing even higher. However, there is a large following for leaving both of them on. You will be amazed how freely this bearing spins even with both seals on so the choice is up to you.
Bearing Dimensions:
METRIC: 7mm (Inner) x 19mm (Outer) x 6mm (Width)
STANDARD: 0.27559" (Inner) x 0.74803" (Outer) x 0.23622" (Width)
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