Nitro Engine Misc
This high quality precision made bearing tool is a must have for hobbyist's looking to rebuild their engines. The kit includes a puller for 7mm and 14mm bearing removal along with a press for installation.
The press is made from high-quality Hard Coated Spring Steel and the bearing surfaces are ground for high precision bearing installation.
All parts are CNC-machined for ultra-high precision making this tool lightweight, compact and comfortable to use. Make engine rebuilds a breeze with this premium bearing tool kit from REDS.
The new Reds Racing RTX Rotary Backplate is an engineering masterpiece that will revolutionise the world of RC Model Nitro Engines.
Developed by Marco and Mario Rossi in collaboration with the best RC drivers in the world, the backplate aims to increase engine power and improve stability at idle speed thanks to a drastic reduction in friction between the connecting rod and backplate.
Reds Racing was one of the first companies in the world to work on reducing the friction between the backplate connecting rod with the introduction of DLC coating on the backplate.
This time Reds Racing engineers have invented something unique in the rc model market, destined to be considered one of the most innovative solutions of the last 30 years.
Contrary to what happens for traditional RC engines, where the connecting rod slides on the backplate producing sliding friction, in the RTX Backplate the connecting rod is in contact with a special steel plate that can rotate together with the conrod thanks to the fact that it is mounted on two special high speed ball bearings.
The backplate is designed, made and tested in Italy respecting the best quality standards. It is currently only available as an optional part and suitable only for Reds Racing engines on road and off road.
Features:
- Designed specifically for REDS 3.5cc (.21) Nitro Engines
- Reduces friction and increases engine idle stability
- Works with on-road and off-road engine blocks
The Avid 14x25.4x6 Ceramic Engine Bearing offers the maximum performance and reliability to your racing engine at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec3, 9 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Deep Groove Offset Races, and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel. A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater than a steel bearing. Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass.
If your engine is not listed below, please check with your manufacturer first to see what size you require.
Engines Used In
- O.S.: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, VZ-B V-Spec II WE
- Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
- RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
- Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
- ProTek: 321B
- Alpha
- Jammin
- Go
- Ninja
- Picco
- Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
- Trinity Drake
Tips
- Diagnosing: If you hold the head of the engine with your hand and the rattling sound disappears then you have a worn-out rear bearing. The risks/issues of a bad rear bearing are not holding a tune, crank can get worn, and worst of all the bearing comes apart and eats your piston/sleeve.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
- Break-In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.
Bearing Dimensions:
Features:
Compact and extremely portable
Protect your battery away from damage of discharge
High quality and durable in use
Use LED to display the test condition
Specification:
Its recommended NOT to use lipo mode with electronic switches in IC Car's, as when the voltage cuts, it can cause a runaway.
Includes:
- 5mm Allen Wrench
- 8mm Clutch Nut
- 10mm Nut Wrench
The bearing specs are Abec5, 7 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Chrome Steel 52100 Rings, and two rubber seals.
A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater over a steel bearing.
Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass (0.8g lighter then the steel ball version of this bearing).
Engines Used In:
- Almost all .21/.28 engines
Tips:
Diagnosing: Typically you can tell a front bearing is going out if after a run there is a large wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistent tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
Break In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.
Bearing Dimensions:
METRIC: 7mm (Inner) x 19mm (Outer) x 6mm (Width)
STANDARD: 0.27559" (Inner) x 0.74803" (Outer) x 0.23622" (Width)
Features:
Compact and extremely portable
Protect your battery away from damage of discharge and overcharge
High quality and durable in use
Use LED to display the test condition
Specification:
Brand name: G.T.POWER
Weight: 10g
Dimension: 43 x 33 x 9mm
Display: LED
Input Voltage: 5V-10V (Lipo 2S or NiCd/NiMh 4-8S)
Max Peak Current: 14A
Max Continuous Current: 8A
When the power is disconnected then reconnected to the switch, the switch will return to its previous state (on or off)
Its recommended NOT to use lipo mode with electronic switches in IC Car's, as when the voltage cuts, it can cause a runaway.
The Avid 14x25.4x6 Engine Bearing offers the amazing performance and reliability to your engine at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec5, 9 G5 Chrome Steel 52100 Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Deep Groove Offset Races, and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel.
If your engine is not listed below, please check with your manufacturer first to see what size you require.
Engines Used In
- O.S.: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, VZ-B V-Spec II WE
- Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
- RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
- Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
- ProTek: 321B
- Alpha
- Jammin
- Go
- Ninja
- Picco
- Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
- Trinity Drake
Tips
- Diagnosing: If you hold the head of the engine with your hand and the rattling sound disappears then you have a worn-out rear bearing. The risks/issues of a bad rear bearing are not holding a tune, crank can get worn, and worst of all the bearing comes apart and eats your piston/sleeve.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
Bearing Dimensions:
Gas R/C racers can install and remove glow plugs from their engines with ease, speed, and style with the Dynamite Nitro Wrench.
The Nitro Wrench has a long, 5" shank with 8MM wrench size for the glow plug that can reach down into tall engine heat sink heads.
It's chrome plated for rust resistance and good looks, and features an indestructible, fuel-proof composite plastic "T" handle. A gas pit box essential.
Engines Used In:
- Almost all .21/.28 engines
Tips:
- Diagnosing: Typically you can tell a front bearing is going out if after a run there is a large wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistent tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
- Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
- Positioning: This bearing has a rubber seal on each side. There is a lot of debate on leaving both seals on the bearing or taking one off and installing the bearing with the rubber seal facing the outside world. Contrary to popular belief, the seal is not designed to keep fuel from coming out of the engine. The seal is ONLY there to keep dirt from coming into the bearing. Personally, I pop out one seal with an X-acto just to increase the performance of the bearing even higher. However, there is a large following for leaving both of them on. You will be amazed how freely this bearing spins even with both seals on so the choice is up to you.
Bearing Dimensions:
METRIC: 7mm (Inner) x 19mm (Outer) x 6mm (Width)
STANDARD: 0.27559" (Inner) x 0.74803" (Outer) x 0.23622" (Width)
If you are not going to be running your engine for a while it is always a good idea to put some after run oil inside the engine to avoid corrosion from moisture.
The best way to get after run oil into your engine is to remove the back plate of the engine and put some inside, then close up the engine and turn it over in your hand. Another great way is to feed the oil into the carburetor or glow plug hole and turn over the engine on your starter box to get the oil to spread evenly through the inside of the engine.
This is a packet of (2) Throttle Return Springs from Dynamite RC.
Features:
- Protects engine in the event of the Throttle Linkage detaching from the servo
- Meets all rules and requirements of sanctioning NZRCA events.
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